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How to Pick Bolts, Hinges, and Seats That Fit the First Time
Building MaterialsToilet seat hardware fits the first time when you take three measurements before you leave the house: the bowl shape, the bolt spread and the mounting type. Get those right, and the rest is a short job.
Here’s the whole game. A round bowl is roughly 16.5 inches from the center of the mounting holes to the front, while an elongated bowl is approximately 18.5 inches. Then check your bolt spread: the standard spacing is 5.5 inches center-to-center on nearly all North American toilets. Last, look under the rim: if you can reach nuts under there, it’s bottom-mounted, the common kind. If you can’t reach underneath, as on many one-piece and skirted toilets, the seat needs top-mount hardware that tightens from above; buy a seat made for top mounting and use the hardware it comes with.
Measure, confirm the mounting, then pick your seat.
Bowl shape decides the seat, and round and elongated don’t swap. WBC’s seats, all white:
| Seat | Shape | What it’s for |
|---|---|---|
| Closed-front seat | Round | The everyday replacement |
| Closed-front seat | Elongated | The everyday replacement for elongated bowls |
| Wood closed-front seat | Round | Heavier, solid feel, warmer to sit on |
| Wood closed-front seat | Elongated | Same, for elongated bowls |
| Sculpted closed-front seat | Round | A contoured look |
| Seat with chrome hinge | Round | Metal hinges for a sturdier, dressier hinge |
| Child/adult seat | Round | A built-in child seat that folds down over the adult ring, for potty training |
| Open-front commercial seat | Elongated | Shops, offices and public restrooms |
Wood seats are heavier and feel more solid; plastic seats are lighter and shrug off cleaners. The child/adult seat saves you buying a separate trainer seat and wrestling it on and off.
A wobbly seat is usually the bolts, not the seat. WBC carries a nylon toilet seat bolt kit and toilet seat hinge bolt sets in two styles.
Plastic and nylon bolts are the right material for this job. They can’t rust, so they don’t seize the way plain steel does in that damp spot, where a rusted bolt can mean cutting it off with a hacksaw a few years later.
Bring the old bolt along if you can, and match its length and how it attaches to the hinge.
The way this job goes wrong most often is overtightening into porcelain.
Pulling old corroded hardware is its own fight. Hit seized nuts with penetrating oil and give it time. If a metal bolt is rusted solid, cut it with a hacksaw rather than forcing it: forcing a corroded bolt is exactly how a bowl ends up cracked.
How do I know if I need a round or elongated seat? Measure from the center line of the mounting bolt holes to the front edge of the bowl. Around 16.5 inches means round; about 18.5 inches means elongated. The shapes aren’t interchangeable.
What’s the standard bolt spacing for a toilet seat? 5.5 inches center-to-center between the two mounting holes, standard on nearly all North American toilets. Still measure yours before buying.
Should I use plastic or metal hinge bolts? Plastic or nylon for a standard seat. They can’t rust, so they’re much easier to get off years later than plain steel in a damp bathroom.
My seat wobbles even after tightening. What’s wrong? Don’t keep cranking: that’s how porcelain cracks. Check the bolts and washers against the seat’s instructions, and if the bolts are worn or stripped, replace them with a new bolt kit.
The old bolts are rusted solid. How do I get them off? Soak the seized nuts in penetrating oil and let it work. If they still won’t budge, cut the bolts with a hacksaw. Never force a corroded metal bolt; a new bowl is a far bigger job than a new seat.
What’s a child/adult toilet seat? A seat with a smaller child ring built in that folds down over the regular seat, so a toddler can use the toilet without a separate trainer seat. Lift it out of the way for adults.
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