Wrecking Bars

A wrecking bar is the tool for taking things apart: deck boards, old framing, fence rails, sheathing, a shed that’s coming down. It’s a heavy steel bar with a curved gooseneck on one end, notched to pull nails, and a flat chisel tip on the other for driving between boards. The length is your leverage, and the weight is what you carry around all day, so picking one is mostly about matching those two to the job.

WBC’s wrecking bars

Bar	Length	Stock	Weight
Wrecking bar	24 in.	7/8 in.	4.75 lb
Wrecking bar	36 in.	3/4 in. hex
Wrecking bar	36 in.	7/8 in.	6.6 lb
Wrecking bar	42 in.	7/8 in.	7.65 lb

24 inches is the one to keep in the truck or the shop. It’s light enough to swing around all day and short enough to work inside a room or under a deck. It pulls nails, splits apart framing and lifts boards, just with less leverage than the long bars.

36 inches is the all-around demolition bar. Twelve more inches of handle is a lot more leverage on a stubborn board, and it still fits most places you’ll use it. WBC has it in 7/8-inch stock and in 3/4-inch hex stock. Hex stock is the common forged-bar shape.

42 inches is for the heavy stuff: big framing, old beams, sill plates, the board that won’t move for anything shorter. It’s the most leverage WBC has in a wrecking bar. It’s also the heaviest, and a long bar can be too much tool for everyday jobs, so it earns its keep on tear-outs more than on small repairs.

Pulling nails with the gooseneck

The notched claw on the curved end slides under a nail head, and the curve acts as the pivot. Rock the handle back and the nail comes up. For a tall nail, slide a scrap block under the curve partway through to keep the pivot high and the pull straight.

Taking boards off

Drive the chisel end between the boards or between the board and the framing, then pry slowly. Loosen a piece a little at a time along its length instead of trying to tear it off with one big pull. That splits less wood and gives you more control. On a deck, work from the end of a board, lifting at each joist.

Prying without wrecking the wall

A wrecking bar pressed straight against drywall or siding will crush it. Put a wide, flat scrap of wood under the bar where it bears on the wall to spread the pressure, and pry where there’s framing behind it. When the trim you’re removing is something you want to keep, a long wrecking bar is more tool than the job needs; a slim flat bar gives more control there.

Using it safely

• Use both hands and a firm grip.
• Keep fingers out from between the bar and the work; things let go suddenly.
• Wear gloves and safety glasses. Demolition throws splinters and nails.
• Don’t stand where the board will spring when it lets go.

The Pick

For a bar that rides along on every job, the 24-inch. For deck tear-outs and general demolition, the 36-inch, in 7/8-inch stock or 3/4-inch hex. For heavy framing and the boards that won’t move, the 42-inch.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size wrecking bar should I buy?

The 24-inch for a light, everyday bar you can use in tight spots; the 36-inch for most demolition; the 42-inch when you need the most leverage on heavy framing.

What’s the difference between a wrecking bar and a crowbar?

The names overlap. A wrecking bar or crowbar is a heavy bar with a curved, notched gooseneck for pulling nails and a chisel tip for prying. Flat bars are thinner and lighter, made for trim.

How do I pull a nail with a wrecking bar?

Slide the notched claw under the nail head and rock the handle back over the curve. For long nails, put a block under the curve partway through to keep pulling straight up.

How do I keep a pry bar from damaging the wall?

Put a wide scrap of wood between the bar and the wall to spread the pressure, and pry where there’s framing behind it.