Spray Paints

Most spray paint that peels was the wrong can for the surface. A general enamel on a plastic chair, a decorative color on a rusty trailer fender, a regular can on a grill: each one can look fine at first and then let go. The fix is picking the can by what you’re painting, then following what’s printed on it. For a whole house or a big fence, a paint sprayer is the tool; this guide is about the aerosol can.

Pick the can by the surface

You’re painting	Reach for	Why
Wood, metal, wicker, mixed projects	Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X or 2X Ultra Cover	General-purpose paint and primer, covers in fewer coats
Plastic: lawn chairs, planters, mailboxes	Krylon Fusion All-In-One or Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover	Made to bond to plastic, no separate primer
Rusty metal: trailers, gates, equipment	Rust-Oleum Stops Rust enamels, hammered finishes, Rust Reformer	Made to go over properly prepped rusty metal
Galvanized steel	A product labeled for galvanized; cold galvanizing compound for damaged galvanizing	Galvanized needs paint made for it, and new galvanized needs degreasing
Outside of grills, wood stoves, engine parts	Rust-Oleum High Heat (BBQ black, ultra black, white)	Rated for heat; regular paint burns off. Never on cooking surfaces or where flame touches
Appliances	Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy (white, almond, black)	Hard finish for washers, fridges and cabinets
Truck beds and trailers	Rust-Oleum truck bed coating	Textured, tough coating
Leaky gutters and flashing	Rust-Oleum leak seal spray	Rubbery coating that seals small leaks
Ground marking and layout	Seymour and Rust-Oleum inverted marking paint	Sprays upside down, bright colors

Read the label before you buy. Every can lists the surfaces it’s made for and the ones it isn’t. Painter’s Touch, for example, says not to use it on galvanized metal. The label is the final word on your surface.

The tricky surfaces

Plastic. Krylon Fusion All-In-One and Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover are made to stick to plastic without a separate primer. Clean it well, scuff a glossy surface, and test a hidden spot first: some plastics won’t take paint at all, so check the can for the plastics it’s made for.

Rusty metal. Wire brush or sand off the loose rust and flaking paint first; paint can’t hold on to rust that’s coming off. Rust-Oleum’s Stops Rust enamels and hammered finishes are made to go on over properly prepped rusty metal, and hammered finishes also hide the pitting. For heavy rust you can’t get down to sound metal, Rust Reformer turns the rust into a black, paintable surface. Trailers, plow frames and stock gates that live through Montana road salt and snowmelt are exactly where this matters.

Galvanized steel. New galvanized usually has an oily film from the mill, so degrease it before anything goes on. Then use a paint labeled for galvanized metal. Where the galvanizing is scratched or cut, like the end of a fence rail you cut down, cold galvanizing compound (WBC carries Rust-Oleum’s bright and flat galvanizing sprays) puts zinc back on the bare steel.

Foam. Solvents in many spray paints melt craft foam. Use a can labeled for foam, and test a hidden spot first.

Primer, or not

Paint-and-primer cans like Painter’s Touch 2X, 2X Ultra Cover, Krylon Fusion and Krylon ColorMaxx handle most prepped surfaces on their own. A separate primer still earns its keep on bare metal, on rusty or patched surfaces, and when you’re changing color a lot. WBC carries Rust-Oleum primers in gray, red, white and black, clean metal primer, Rust-Oleum Professional primer, Krylon ColorMaxx red oxide primer and sandable black primer.

WBC’s spray paint line

• Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X and 2X Ultra Cover: the everyday colors, gloss, satin and flat.
• Rust-Oleum Stops Rust and Professional enamels: gloss and semi-gloss anti-rust black and white, aluminum, and Professional gray and red oxide, for metal that works for a living. Safety red, orange and yellow sit alongside them.
• Hammered and metallic: black, brown, silver and gray hammered; gold and bright aluminum.
• Krylon Fusion All-In-One and ColorMaxx: gloss, satin, matte and metallic colors, plus clear finishes.
• Specialty: High Heat and BBQ black, appliance epoxy, auto primer, camo colors, reflective paint, chalked paint and its clear sealer, clear lacquer and polyurethane, and big 24-ounce Turbo cans for bigger jobs.
• Marking: Seymour inverted marking paint in fluorescent colors and Rust-Oleum marking paint.

When you’re marking for a dig, the colors mean something: red for electric, yellow for gas and oil, orange for communications, blue for water, green for sewer, pink for survey marks and white for where you plan to dig. Before digging, request a utility locate so the utilities mark their lines.

Spraying it so it lasts

Prep. Clean off dirt, grease and loose paint. Scuff glossy surfaces with fine sandpaper so the new coat has something to grip. Mask everything you don’t want painted; overspray carries farther than you’d think.

Temperature. Most cans want the air between about 50 and 90°F and low humidity; the label gives yours. In a cold Montana garage in fall, the paint goes on thick, sags and stays tacky. Bring the can and the part to room temperature, or wait for a warm, dry day.

Shake. Shake as long as the can says, usually at least a minute after the ball starts to rattle, and keep shaking now and then as you go.

Light coats. Hold the can about 10 to 16 inches away, keep it moving in steady, overlapping passes, and lay on two or three light coats a few minutes apart. Thin coats are how you avoid drips and runs.

Recoat window. Many enamels must be recoated within an hour or after a day or two; recoat in between and the finish can wrinkle. The window is different from can to can, so check the label before the second coat.

Clear the nozzle. When you’re done, clear the tip the way the can says; for most upright cans, that’s turning it upside down and spraying until only gas comes out. Inverted marking cans have their own directions.

Safety and storage

Spray outdoors, or indoors only with good cross-ventilation moving the fumes out, away from any flame or pilot light, and wear a respirator rated for paint fumes, gloves and eye protection. Store cans somewhere dry, away from heat. A can left in a freezing truck all winter won’t spray right until it’s warmed back up. Never burn or puncture a can; recycle empties where your local rules allow.

The Pick

For everyday wood and metal projects, Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X or 2X Ultra Cover. For plastic, Krylon Fusion All-In-One. For rusty trailers, gates and equipment, Rust-Oleum Stops Rust or a hammered finish over a wire-brushed surface. For the outside of a grill or stove, High Heat. For a cut galvanized rail, cold galvanizing compound. For marking a dig or a layout, the inverted marking paint in the right color.

Frequently Asked Questions

What spray paint works on plastic? Krylon Fusion All-In-One and Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover are made to bond to plastic without a separate primer. Clean and scuff the surface, and test a hidden spot first.

Can I spray paint galvanized metal? Yes, with a paint labeled for galvanized metal, after degreasing new galvanized. Some general enamels, like Painter’s Touch, say not to use them on galvanized. For scratched or cut galvanizing, use cold galvanizing compound.

Can I spray paint over rust? Over prepped rust, yes. Remove the loose rust and flaking paint, then use a rust-preventive enamel or hammered finish. For heavy rust, Rust Reformer converts it to a paintable surface.

How long do I wait between coats? It depends on the can. Many enamels must be recoated within an hour or else after a day or two, or the finish can wrinkle. Check the label.

What temperature can I spray paint in? Most cans list about 50 to 90°F with low humidity. Colder than that, the paint sags and stays tacky. Warm the can and the part, or wait for a warmer day.

Do I need primer? Not usually with paint-and-primer cans on a prepped surface. Use a separate primer on bare or rusty metal, patched spots, or a big color change.

What do the marking paint colors mean? Red is electric, yellow is gas and oil, orange is communications, blue is water, green is sewer, pink is survey and white is proposed digging. Request a utility locate before you dig.