Roofing Fall Protection

A fall arrest system only works as a whole. A good harness tied to a bad anchor, or a lanyard too long for the height you’re working at, won’t stop you before you hit something. So before you buy, know the three parts and what each one does. WBC carries a complete roofer’s kit and a vest-style harness, and between them they cover the harness and connecting gear for a residential roof job; whether a setup fits your roof depends on the anchor, the clearance and the conditions.

The three parts

Every personal fall arrest system has the same three pieces:

1. The anchor: a secure point the system ties to. On a roof, that’s usually a roof anchor fastened through the sheathing into a rafter or truss.
2. The connector: what runs from the anchor to you. On a roof, that’s usually a rope lifeline with a rope grab, a device on the line that locks if you fall (some follow you automatically, some you move by hand; the instructions say which), plus a short lanyard from the rope grab to your harness.
3. The harness: a full-body harness that catches you and spreads the force of the stop across your thighs, pelvis, chest and shoulders. A waist belt isn’t allowed for fall arrest; it can cause internal injuries when it stops a fall.

The Pro Roofer fall protection kit

A roofer’s kit puts the whole system in one box, so you’re not trying to match parts. Kits like this typically include a full-body harness, a roof anchor, a rope lifeline with a rope grab, and a connecting lanyard. Check the box for exactly what’s in it and the lifeline length, and read the instructions for how the anchor has to be fastened. It’s the right buy for a homeowner reroofing a house or a crew that wants a ready set for each person on the roof.

The FallTech vest-style harness

A vest-style harness is a full-body harness built like a vest, which keeps the straps organized so it’s quicker to put on and sits more comfortably over a long day. Use it to replace a worn harness, or to pair with a lifeline, rope grab and anchor rated to work with it. A harness on its own doesn’t protect anybody: every worker on the roof needs a complete system of their own. Check the label for the standards that model is rated to.

Fitting the harness

A harness that’s too loose can let you slip partway out in a fall, and one that’s too tight you’ll take off.

• The back D-ring sits between your shoulder blades. That’s what you clip to.
• Leg straps snug, fitted the way the harness instructions say.
• Chest strap across the middle of your chest, not up at your throat.
• Count your tools. Harness ratings cover you plus what you’re carrying, so add the weight of your tool belt.
• Fit it over your winter layers. On a Montana roof in October, you’ll be in a coat and bibs. Adjust the harness over what you’ll actually wear, or it’ll be too tight or too loose when it counts.

Setting the anchor and the line

• Anchor first, before you’re exposed. Place and fasten the roof anchor exactly where and how its instructions show, into framing it’s rated for, and clip in before you step anywhere you could fall.
• Work below and close to the anchor. Working off to one side means a fall swings you sideways like a pendulum, into the roof or off the edge.
• Keep the line short. The rope grab should sit at or above your back D-ring so a fall is stopped quickly. Leave less slack and you fall less distance before it locks.
• Know your clearance. A fall arrest system needs room below you to stop: the free fall, the deceleration distance, your height below the D-ring and a safety margin on top. The equipment instructions give the numbers for your setup. On a one-story eave, that room runs out fast.
• Protect the rope from sharp roof edges and hot tools.

When a roof needs it

On construction work, fall protection is required once you can fall 6 feet or more. A steep roof, steeper than 4 in 12, which describes a lot of Montana roofs built to shed snow, calls for guardrails, safety nets or personal fall arrest. On a snowy or frosted roof, every pitch is steeper than it looks; a harness is cheap compared to the fall.

Have a rescue plan before anyone goes up: a ladder or other way to reach a worker hanging in a harness, and people on site ready to do it right away. Hanging in a harness for long is dangerous in itself, so a fallen worker can’t wait for help to be figured out.

Inspect it every time

Before each use, look over the harness webbing and the rope for cuts, fraying, burns and paint or chemical damage, check buckles and D-rings for cracks and bends, and make sure the rope grab locks. Any harness or lanyard that has stopped a fall is done; take it out of service.

The Pick

For a reroof or a steep-roof job where the anchor and clearance work, the Pro Roofer fall protection kit, one per person on the roof. To replace a worn harness, the FallTech vest-style harness.

Frequently Asked Questions

What comes in a roofer’s fall protection kit?

Typically a full-body harness, a roof anchor, a rope lifeline with a rope grab, and a lanyard. Check the box for exact contents and lifeline length.

At what height do I need fall protection on a roof?

On construction work, at 6 feet or more. On a steep roof, over 4 in 12, working at that height calls for guardrails, nets or a personal fall arrest system.

Can I use a safety belt instead of a harness?

Not for fall arrest. Body belts have been unacceptable for stopping falls since 1998; they can cause internal injuries. Use a full-body harness.

How should a fall protection harness fit?

D-ring between your shoulder blades, leg straps snug per the harness instructions, chest strap across mid-chest. Fit it over the clothes you’ll work in.

Can I reuse a harness after a fall?

No. Any harness or lanyard that has arrested a fall comes out of service.